How I Create Out-Of-Kit Special Effects
special effects makeup is such an amazing artistry tool with no limits to creativity and also very useful (indispensable) in the Movie Film and in Television.
Training different special makeup effects helps me also a lot to train my attention to details and most important - my knowledge about all the beauty effect brands out there and how to use them properly. It is absolutley great to find immideate solutions for example when a makeup application didn't came out as planned or how I expected it to look like, there are so many different ways to get to the goal and by knowing different application skills there is always a satisfying outcome.
10 international Makeup Brands and Stores for Best SFX Hair and Makeup Results
PPI Products Inc.
Known due to their fabolous SKIN ILLUSTRATOR line. A US company on the market since 1978. Their Chemists ensure highest quality products approved by FDA standards for industry professioanls.
Ben Nye is a professional makeup brand from Hollywood. The quality and the color options are the best! From clear matte white shadows, bright pink shimmer lip colors to dark sparkly shadows, his variety is just a dream and the color payoff is perfect, a little goes a long way!His color wheels are gorgeous and everything is HD quality! Most products are even still hand-crafted in Los Angeles.
Kryolan is THE brand in the German theatre and TV scene. Professional colors, easy textures, high coverage and very functional products. The shade collection is sorted for EVERY color shade out there! I really love that! "At Kryolan, we make make-up. But not like anybody else. We've been doing this over 70 years. And we're still doing it today. There is only one real professional makeup maker. There is only one Kryolan."
PAM LONDON (PRECIOUS ABOUT MAKEUP)
One of the longest-established pro stores in the UK. I love watching Pam's Tuesday Tips on Instagram or tutorial videos on their website to stay informed what products or useful tricks I can adopt in my daily makeup artist life.
MEL PRODUCTS USA
"Made by Artists for Artists"
2011 was their first product release to the film industry. Known for their Mel pax paint, Mel bald cap, ESP (Encapsulated Silicone Prosthetics), SOS Molds (Silicone On-Set), Mel Gel (Bondo, Edge Blender, Prosthetic Transfer Cream), Mel Skin etc.
MAKEUP BY DAVID STONEMAN
Available at various online shops as TILT, MWS, Vero Professionals, The Makeup Amoury.
Superior quality special fx makeup manufacturer located in the UK. Unique sfx products for ultra realistic results on camera from blood to all casualty and injury simultations.
Prosthetic Transfer Material used to crete prosthetic transfers through a process of filling, freezing and demolding. Their transfers require no additional adhesives and are applied to the skin with water and transfer paper only.
"Time is the most valuable thing in the long run and especially true in the short run. So we thought people should have a high quality option that is readily available whenever they need it most.
OUT OF KIT
Full service prosthetic lab plus pre-made prosthetics available for purchase. PEEL'N STICK are so easy and fast to apply, the realistic look of their various prosthetics is incredible!
Canadian owned maufacturer, founded 1983.
I saw so many MUA's working with the famous "Total Tatoo Coverage Palette" on set.
It comes in handy Palettes made of multi-use Pigemts for endless creations (prior to application I like to thin the product with IPA)
Waterproof, smudge-proof and transfer resistant finishes!
Besides their own house collection, they sell so many professional SFX Hair and Makeup products, offering A-Z cosmetic brands and ship worldwide, how amazing!
Pro FX Brushes, Bluebird FX products, Dashbo, EBA, Jess FX, Ripper FX, Schmere, Vueset and so on!
SIDE NOTE My favourite "Glue" or in professional artist language " Adhesive", for pre-made silicone prosthetics is the WESTMORE Effects collection. It offers all over the best adhesion, skin friendliness and effectivness of all adhesives I have tried so far. A little goes a long way!
Westmore Effects Silicone Adhesive and Thinner
Different ways to create SFX Makeup "Scars"
1 - Probondo Material + Silicone Flat Mould
2 - 3rd Degree Silicone Gel
3 - Kryolan Tuplast Material
4 - Ben Nye Scar Effects Gel 5 - Mehron Rigid Collodion
Out of Kit Special Effects Scar Material
Scar SFX Variations
Proondo Material + Flat Bondo Mould
I recommend a good amount of powder (powdering the powder excess completely off) before applying any color.
3rd Degree Silicone Gel
Please read fully and thoroughly the application directions, otherwise you could ruin the whole product. Every product has his own properties and needs different handling. Powdering with a big fluff sponge gave me smoother results than with a powder brush..
Kryolan Tuplast Material
(Dries really fast on skin, not a long mouldtime)
Ben Nye Scar effects Gel
Needs to be prepared with hot water to liquify the gel formula, pre-temperature test before applying on client is highly recommended.
Mehron Rigid Collodion
(Do Not Apply on eyes, lips, or skin with hair e.g. facial hair) Made almost a big mistake by skipping to read the application directions but I did it luckily and prevented an eventuel skin irritation.
With following alcohol activated makeup palettes I made the best experiences for true skin - looking - effects. The benefit of these alcohol activated colors is the possibility to create "washes" to full coverage skin effects.
Bluebird FX Palettes - Kryolan BI Palettes Ripper FX - Palettes
EBA European Body Art & Skin Illustrator - also great for Airbrush
Alcohol activated makeup requires 99% Alcohol (not lower!), usually available on Amazon or at Pro Beauty supply stores.
Ahhh - so many beautiful color palettes are available these days, I can't have enough. As artists, we love to mix colors and normally would only need basic colors to achieve all the various shades and tones BUT - having pre-made colors can save so much time, every second and minute saved, helps especially On-Set.
Basic Tools and Products for Flawaless SFX Results
The Color Wheel
Understanding color theory is in my opinion essential in order to be a professional artist and for realistic end results.
Terri Tomlinson is a a Pro Artist with decades of teaching experience The color Wheel. Below is a link to her video of the one and only "Flesh tone color wheel", she also has a fun Instagram account with helpful tips and tricks.
Tools, Prosthetics & Disposables
It is always smart to have some OUT OF KIT prosthetics in your kit, sometimes they ak for a spontanous special effect and you look damn good if you can deliver!
Some OUT OF KIT Examples
blood, scratches, cuts, wounds, trauma e.g. beaten up bumps and swollen eye effects,
SFX Nose, SFX brow blocker, SFX ears, SFX silicone material e.g. dermaflage, bruise colors, IPA,
A million sponges, cotton tips and towel/ tissues is a good idea to have always with you. For easy application - Bdellium and Titanium FX have a huge variety of different effect brushes and fantastic quality!
Save Step By Step Application
> Protective Skin Barrier (Skin Saver or Derma Shield are very popular products to protect the skin and for easier makeup removal.
> Application (e.g. stainless steel spatula and mixing palette) with clean + sanitized tools only, especially on clients!
> Temperature Test if using warmed gel or wax products
> Removal works best with a warm towel first followed by pure oil remover as Isoproyl Myristate or drops of IPA on a cooton round for alcohol activated colors ( Not on eye or mouth area)
Here my favorite online SFX Schools which worth 100% a subscription
Stan Winston School of Character Arts
Neill Gorton Studio